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Growing Cannabis (marijuana) - A FREE GUIDE

Cannabis probably evolved in the foothills of the Himalayas in the somewhere in the Indo-china area, but it has a mysterious origin lost in antiquity like so many great things.Whats important is it is here and made to be used properly by us as it is a boon from nature itself and should be regarded with the respect due all great things. It has been grown for three products- seeds, which are used as a grainlike food and animal feed and for oil(also medical marijuana usage); its fiber, which is used for cloth and rope(hemp); and its resin, which is used medically and recreationally since it contains the group of psychoactive substances collectively known as Tetra-hydrocannibinol, usually referred to as THC.  Plants grown for seed or fiber are usually referred to as hemp and contain small amounts of THC.  Plants grown for THC and for the resin are referred to as marijuana.  Use of cannabis and its products spread quickly throughout the world.  Marijuana is now cultivated in climates ranging from the Arctic to the equator.  Cannabis has been evolving for hundreds of thousands of generations on its own and through informal breeding programs by breeders.  A diverse group of varieties has evolved or been developed as a result of breeders attempts to create a plant that is efficient at producing the desired product, which flourishes under particular environmental conditions.  Cannabis easily escapes from cultivation going "wild".  characteristics, evolve over a number of generations. Varieties differ in growth characteristics such as height, width, branching traits, leaf size, leaf shape, flowering time, yield, potency, taste, high, and aroma.  For the most part, potency is a factor of breeding genetics.  Some plants have the genetic potential of producing high grade marijuana and others do not.  The goal of the cultivator is.  to allow the high THC plants to reach their full potential.  Marijuana is a fast growing annual plant(some call it weed), although some varieties in some warm areas over winter.  It does best in a well- drained medium, high in fertility.  It requires long periods of unobstructed bright light daily(strong artificial light substitutes).  Marijuana is usually dioecious; plants are either male or female, although some varieties are monoecious - they have male and female flowers on the same plant.  Marijuana's annual cycle begins with germination in the early spring.  The plant grows vigorously for several months.  The plant begins to flower in the late summer or early fall and sets seed by late fall.  The seeds drop as the plant dies as a result of changes in the weather.  Indoors, the grower has complete control of the growth cycle and environment.  The grower determines when the plants are to be started, when they will flower, how many are planted in the same area, the speed of growth, etc. So keeping this all in mind and reading further into the marijuana growing process can yield you fantastic results for the best marijuana, or cannabis if you prefer. Either way, there are many tips and tricks and free help available to people willing to search for cannabis growing secrets.

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SPACE:

Marijuana varieties differ not Only in their growth rate, but also in their potential size.  The grower also plays a role in determin- log the size of the plants because the plants can be induced to flower at any age or size just by regulating the number of hours of uninter- rupted darkness that the plants receive.  Growers have different ideas about how much space each plant needs.  The closer the plants are spaced, the less room the individual plant has to grow.  Some growers use only a few plants in a space, and they grow the plants in large containers.  Other growers prefer to fill the space with smaller plants.  Either method works, but a gar den with smaller plants which fills the space more completely probably yields more in less time.  The total vegetative growth in a Worn containing many small sized plants is greater than a room co ntaining only a few plants.  Since each plant is smaller, it needs less time to grow to its desired size.  Remember that the gardener is in terested in a crop of beautiful buds, not beautiful plants.  The amount of space a plant requires depends on the height the plants are to grow.  A plant growing 10 feet high is going to be wider than a 4 foot plant.  The width of the plant also depends on cultiva- don practices.  Plants which are pruned grow wider than unpruned plants.  The different growth characteristics of the plants also affect die space required by each plant.  In 1-or 2-light gardens, where the plants are to grow no higher than 6 feet, plants are given between 1 and 9 square feet of space.  In a high greenhouse lit by natural light, Where the plants grow 10-12 feet high, the plants may be given as m uch as 80 to 100 square feet.

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MARIJUANA GROWING INDOORS

This guide will help the new or experienced closet grower set up a simple space, at least 2 ft by 4 ft and 5 or more feet tall, into a private cannabis Farm. You may use an existing closet, a movable box type closet, or even an old fridge works great. Divide the closet into two light proof sections, one smaller than the other, if you use a fridge this is perfect. Manure and other slow-releasing natural fertilizers are often added to the planting mix.  With these additives, the grower needs to use fertilizers only supplementally.  Some of the organic amend- ments are listed in the following chart.  Organic amendments can be mixed but should not be used in amounts larger than those recom- mended because too much nutrient can cause toxicity.  Some growers add time-release fertilizers to the mix.  These are formulated to release nutrients over a specified period of time, usually 3, 4, 6 or 8 months.  The actual rate of release is regulated in part by temperature, and since house temperatures are usually higher than outdoor soil temperatures, the fertilizers used indoors release over a shorter period of time than is noted on the label.  Gardeners find that they must supplement the time-release fer- tilizer formulas with soluble fertilizers during the growing season.  Growers can circumvent this problem by using a time-release fer- tilizer suggested for a longer period of time than the plant cycle.  For instance, a 9 month time-release fertilizer can be used in a 6 month garden.  Remember that more fertilizer is releasing faster, so that a larger amount of nutrients will be available than was intended.  These mixes are used sparingly.  About one tablespoon of dolomite limestone should be added for each gallon of planting mix, or a half cup per cubic foot of mix.  This supplies the calcium along with magnesium, both of which the plants require.  If dolomite is unavailable, then hydrated lime or any agricultural lime can be used. 

For lighting you will need at least one set of 4 ft fluorescent tubes and ballast for Vegetative growth.
You also need a 250 or 400 watt Metal Halide bulb and ballast for your flowering period. You will need a small fan to remove air from your closet and to gently blow the plants when the lights are on. this is to keep the room cool (25*C) and supply fresh CO2. This can be a fan sucking air from the room or an exhaust fan that draws air outside the grow room. The first crop will take about three months from seed to harvest. Make sure you have good seeds suitable for indoor growth, and only use seeds from the most potent marijuana. If you can get cuttings from a growing friend then you are a step ahead. Start seeds directly in peat pots or your soil/soil less mix, under 24 hours light from the fluorescent tubes. Tubes can be 2 inches from seedlings.
Grow your plants for 3 weeks fertilizing after the first set of leaves show. Miracle Grow or any complete 20-20-20 fertilizer should be fed in a weak solution with every feeding. Organic fertilizers are also recommended. Be very careful not to over fertilize. USE 'CLEAN' soil always.
After three weeks transplant the plants into larger pots (or rockwool cube in hydro setups). Then place marihuana plants under 12 hours lighting from the Metal Halide. Whether your 12 hour light cycle is in the day or night is up to you. But make sure that you can take care of watering and caring for your plants in the light! Do not interrupt the Dark period. This will delay the flowering process and it will take forever to complete.
About a week after you start the flowering process you will spot males with small green pods that hang. Remove them only when you are sure that they are males. They are not garbage, in fact the males are quite potent before the females reach their max potency! Harvest the males just before they release pollen. The females will become evident as they will grow bushy, producing many white pistils. They will grow more and more bushy and develop a main cola. Don't prune, bend plants if they grow too tall. Select a fast maturing variety such as Alaska or Skunk #1. But how do I get 5 or even 6 or 7 crops per year? you ask... After your first harvest, Select your best female for potency, vigor and early flowering. Don't just pull plants from the roots, leave the bottom 3-4 branches and a few flowers. Revert your prize female to vegetative by placing it under a 24 hour light cycle. After a few weeks several fast growing shoots will appear, these are perfect for taking cuttings from your plants. Take several 3 inch cuttings and root for 3 weeks under 24 hours light. Keep the original Mother alive for future clone crops. Keep clones in the vegetative cycle for 3 more weeks, then place in the flowering section (12/12 regimen). Now you can have a crop every 6-8 weeks, this depends on the Marijuana strains you grow While you wait for flowering to complete, you take another set of clones from your mother which is kept in 24 hours light always, and by the time they root and grow somewhat the flowering crop will be ready to harvest. This is how you keep your flowering room constantly producing buds with no down-time in-between crops! If you are not a proffesional electrician, or just want a medical grow Box that is UL and CSA approved just like any other household appliance. Or if you are legal to grow and just need something fire insurance proof for peace of mind.

Growing marijuana in soil

Some growers have the opportunity to grow plants directly in the ground.  Many greenhouses are built directly over the earth.  Growing directly in the soil has many advantages over container growing.  A considerable amount of labor may be eliminated because there is no need to prepare labor-intensive containers with expensive medium.  Another advantage is that the plants' needs are met more easily.  Before using any greenhouse soil, it is necessary to test it.  The pH and fertility of soils vary so much that there are few generaliza- tions that can be made about them.  The most important quality of any soil is its texture.  Soils which drain well usually are composed of particles of varying size.  This creates paths for water to flow and also allows air pockets to remain even when the soil is saturated.  Soils composed of very fine particles, such as mucks and clay, do not drain well.  Few air particles are trapped in these soils when they are saturated.  When this happens, the roots are unable to ob- tain oxygen and they weaken when they are attacked by anaerobic bacteria.  These soils should be adjusted with sand and organic mat- ter which help give the medium some porosity.  Materials suitable for this include sand, compost, composted manure, as well as perlite, lava, gravel, sphagnum moss, styrofoam particles and foam particles.  Low lying areas may have a very high water table so that the soils remain saturated most of the time.  One way to deal with this problem is to create a series of mounds or raised beds so that the roots are in ground at higher level than the floor level.  Once soil nutrient values are determined, adjustments can be made in the soil's fertility.  For marijuana, the soil should test high in total Nitrogen, and the medium should test high in Phosphorous and Potassium.  This is covered in subsequent chapters. to Growers use several methods to prepare the soil.  Some prefer till the whole area using either a fork, a roto-tiller or a small trac- tor and plow.  The marijuana plant grows both vertical and horizon- tal roots.  The horizontal roots grow from the surface to a depth of 9-18 inches depending on the soil's moisture.  They grow closer to I the surface of moist soils.  The vertical root can stretch down several feet in search of water.  In moist soils, the vertical roots may be short, even stunted.  Soil with loose texture, sandy soils, and soils high in organic matter may have adequate aeration, porosity, and space for roots and may not have to be tilled at all.  Most soils should be dug to a depth of 6-9 inches.  The tighter the soil's texture, the deeper it should be tilled.

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If the soil is compacted, it is dug to a depth of two feet.  This can be done by plowing and moving the soil in alternate rows and then plowing the newly uncovered soil.  Soil texture adjustors such as gypsum are added to the bottom layer of the soil as well as the top layer, but soil amendments such as fertilizers or compost are added only to the top layer, where most of the plant's roots are.  Then the soil is moved back into the troughs and the alternate rows are prepared the same way.  A variation of this technique is the raised bed.  First, the whole area is turned, and then aisles are constructed by digging out the pathways and adding the material to the beds.  With the addition of organic soil amendments, the total depth of prepared soil may stretch down 18 inches.  Some growers use planting holes rather than tilling the soil.  A hole ranging between 1 and 3 feet wide and 1½ and 3 feet deep is dug at each space where there is to be a plant.  The digging can be facilitated using a post hole digger, electric shovel, or even a small backhoe or power hole digger.  Once the hole is dug the soil is ad- justed with amendments or even replaced with a mix.  No matter how the soil is prepared, the groundwater level and the permeability of the lower layers is of upmost importance.  Areas with high water tables, or underlying clay or hardpan will not drain well.  In either case the garden should be grown in raised beds which allow drainage through the aisles and out of the growing area, rather than relying on downward movement through soil layers.  Soils in used greenhouses may be quite imbalanced even if the plants were growing in containers.  The soil may have a buildup of nutrient salts, either from runoff or direct application, and pesticides or herbicides may be present.  In soils with high water tables the nutrients and chemicals have nowhere to go, so they dissolve and spread out horizontally as well as vertically, con- taminating the soil in surrounding areas.  Excess salts can be flushed from the soil by flooding the area with water and letting it drain to the water table.  In areas with high water tables, flushing is much more difficult.  Trenches are dug around the perimeter of the garden which is then flooded with nutrient-free water.  As the water drains into the trenches, it is removed with a pump and transported to another location.  Pesticides and herbicides may be much more difficult to remove.  Soils contaminated with significant amounts of residues may be unsuitable for use with material to be ingested or inhaled.  Instead, the garden should be grown in containers using non- indigenous materials.  Usually plants are sexed before they are planted in the ground.  If the soil showed adequate nutrient values no fertilizer or side dressing will be required for several months.  Several growers have used ingenious techniques to provide their gardens with earthy environments.  One grower in Oregon chopped through the concrete floor of his garage to make planting holes.  The concrete had been poured over sub-soil so he dug out the holes and replaced the sub-soil with a mixture of composted manure, vermiculite, perlite, worm castings, and other organic in gredients.  He has been using the holes for several years.  After several crops, he redigs the holes and adds new ingredients to the mix.  A grower in Philadelphia lived in a house with a backyard which was cemented over.  He constructed a raised bed over the con- crete using railroad ties and filled it with a rich topsoil and com posted manure mixture, then built his greenhouse over that.  The growing bed is about 15 inches deep and the grower reports incredible growth rates.

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DO-IT-YOURSELF Carbon Dioxide(Co2)

Every green leafed plant uses carbon dioxide(co2) Yeast is a living, eating, breathing and reproducing organism. They consume sugar and water and excrete carbon dioxide and alcohol. Yeast is used in the production of alcohol. Buy some brewers yeast at a make-your-own-beer/wine store. You will have to get a large jug with a small mouth, a rubber cork with a hole in it that will fit in the mouth of the jug, and six to ten feet (your decision) of flexible tubing in which the carbon dioxide will travel. All of these can be found at the one store. You are basically reviving the dry yeast in the package so that they will eat the sugar you give it and produce carbon dioxide meanwhile. Ask the person at the store that "you want to produce carbon dioxide for some house plants". They will give you what you need.

• Fill the large jug with slightly warm water. Not hot, not even warm, just a bit warmer than lukewarm. The warmth wakes up the yeast.
  
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• Empty the packet of yeast in the jug and stir.
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• . After a few hours the yeast should be active and producing carbon dioxide. The production of carbon dioxide can be observed by actual bubbles floating to the surface.
• The only thing you have to do now is maintain the life of your yeast population. Dump out some of the solution and add fresh water so that is does not become stagnant. Add a few teaspoons of sugar. Do this every week or two.
  
• Theoretically, your yeast population can last for an eternity!
  
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